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$999.95

Pros
Incredible 125x (24-3,000mm) zoom range. 7fps burst. Vari-angle LCD. EVF. Raw support. 4K video. Wi-Fi and Bluetooth.
Cons
Image quality suffers at maximum zoom. Unresponsive after bursts. No weather protection. Pricey. Bulky. Screen omits touch support.
Bottom Line
The Nikon Coolpix P1000 has the longest zoom of any fixed lens camera yet, but it takes a good deal of skill to master.

The Nikon Coolpix P1000 ($999.95) is beyond an audacious idea for a camera. It marries a small 16MP image sensor—about the same dimensions as what you find in a top-end smartphone—to an absurdly big, long 125x zoom lens. The result is a bit of a Frankenstein device, with a body as big as an SLR, and a large, permanently attached lens. It's not the right camera for every photographer or situation, and it requires a good deal of skill to use effectively at maximum zoom. But it does succeed in filling a niche, and will find a place in the heart and bag of some photographers, especially for use in capturing images of distant wildlife.

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That said, for most photographers we recommend the Canon PowerShot SX60 HS as our Editors' Choice for cameras that exceed a 50x zoom ratio. It costs about half as much as the P1000, seems to be about half the size, and is a better all-arounder. But if you laugh at a zoom with a 'mere' 1,365mm reach, the 3,000mm zoom of the P1000 may lure you in with its siren song. Just be aware that it requires effort and skill to get strong results at the extreme end of its zoom lens.

Big Lens, Big Camera

The P1000 is the largest bridge-style camera we've ever seen. Its body is about the size of a small SLR—it resembles the D5600—with a protruding fixed lens, larger than any SLR starter zoom. The P1000 measures 4.7 by 5.8 by 7.2 inches (HWD), weighs 3.1 pounds, and supports 77mm front lens filters. The handgrip is pretty deep, but I still found the big lens to make the camera a little bit front heavy, and the tripod socket is on the body, which doesn't make for the best balance when mounted on a tripod.

The superlative zoom range is the reason for the bulk. The lens is a 4.3-539mm f/2.8-8, equivalent to a 24-3,000mm in full-frame terms. It can snap shots of wide-angle landscapes, and zoom in to bring distant subjects into clear view. You can get an idea of what that gets you by taking a look at the image above, shot at 24mm, and the one below, at 3,000mm. The little white dots in the wide shot are egrets, and you can see how tightly the zoom captures one of the birds, as it starts to take flight, in the uncropped shot below.

There's actually a good macro capability too. At the wide angle, the lens can focus on subjects just 0.4-inch (1 centimeter) from the front of the lens. A 3,000mm focus is available to 23 feet (7 meters), so you're better off getting up close and personal for your macro shots.

The P1000 doesn't have extensive weather protection. Nikon doesn't advertise dust or splash protection, and while I wouldn't hesitate to use it in light precipitation, you should definitely take care to cover it when working in any weather in which you'd grab an umbrella to keep yourself dry. If all-weather use is more important than zoom reach, look at the Sony RX10 III or RX10 IV, both of which sport a 24-600mm f/2.4-4 zoom, a larger image sensor, and weather protection.

The big body leaves plenty of room for physical controls. The left side of the lens barrel holds a zoom control rocker along with a framing assist button—it temporarily widens the field of view of the lens, compared with your set position, and shows an on-screen box overlay to indicate the actual zoom setting. This lets you find your target, frame it, and release the button to return the lens to the previous zoom position. When zoomed in, it is often difficult to find or track your subject due to the extremely narrow angle of view.

In practice, the zoom-out assistance works well. No, this is not a great camera for tracking fast-moving targets—I'll talk about its burst rate and autofocus system in a bit—but I was able to get a few action shots in testing. The P1000 would never be my first choice for tracking fast action, however. You're better off with an SLR like the D500, a 150-600mm zoom lens, and willingness to crop photos as needed.

The lens also includes a programmable control ring. When the camera is set to manual focus it's your focus control, in the expected place toward the front of the outer barrel. But if you're using the camera in autofocus you can set it to perform another function. It works well—you can turn it quickly to dial in a big adjustment, or more slowly for minute changes. I never turned it accidentally while making images, and had no problem dialing in third-stop EV compensation adjustments. Aside from EV, you can set the ring to adjust ISO or White Balance.

There's a hot shoe (for an external flash) and a pop-up flash, both centered behind the lens, on the top plate. The pop-up flash is big, and rises a couple of inches above the body when opened for use. Even so, you'll need to remove the lens hood when using the pop-up for shots at the widest angle, as it will cast a shadow on photos otherwise.

To the right of the Mode dial, on the right side of the top, are an additional control dial, the On/Off button, the Fn button, the zoom control, and the shutter release. In additon to the standard Auto, Progam, Aperture, Shutter, and Manual exposure modes, the P1000 includes a Scene recognition setting, a Moon mode, a Bird mode, and a number of Instagram-style filter effects, ranging from desaturated bleach bypass to a high-contrast black-and-white look Nikon has dubbed Noir.

The Moon and Bird settings aren't much to talk about. The former zooms the lens to the 1,000mm position and sets focus to infinity. I had no problems capturing a handheld shot of a crescent moon with the P1000 without using the special mode, and did it at the maximum 3,000mm setting. Detail isn't as strong as moon shots I've taken with long lenses and big sensor cameras, but it's neat that you're able to do it with a lens that can also cover wide-angle vistas.

I found the Bird setting to be less useful—it changes the focus point to a small, central area, so you can focus and recompose, and uses the OK button to set the lens to the 500mm position. You can still adjust the zoom in or out, but you'll always see a virtual frame, matching the 500mm angle of view, when capturing wider shots. It's just there to let you know what the frame would be like if you hit the OK button to punch into 500mm. I was pretty happy photographing wildlife without the framing assist, but you may find it more useful in practice.

As an alternative to framing assistance, you can add an accessory to the hot shoe, the Nikon DF-M1 Dot Sight ($174.95). The add-on slips into the shoe, and pops up to reveal a small transparent viewscreen and a centered laser pointer. Once calibrated (the DF-M1 can be used with other cameras too), it shows you the center point of your lens. You won't get framing assist, so

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